Method of making darts or gores in articles of wearing apparel



July 23, 1929. P. REICHARDT 7 1,721,575

IETHOD OF MAKING DARTS OR GORES IN ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL Filed Jan. 8, 1926 INVEN TOR.

BY ATTORNEYS.

Patented July 23, 1929.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

PETER REICHARDT, OF BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.

METHOD OF MAKING DARTS OR GORES IN ARTICLES 015 WEARING APPAREL.

Application filed January 8, 1928.

This invention relates to certain new and useful improvements in the method of forming a dart or gore in articles of wearing apparel, more particularly top coats worn by males.

The principal object of this invention is the method of making a dart or gore in a coat or the like, in such a manner as to present a smooth, unobstructed surface on the exterior surface of the article of wearing apparel in which the dart or gore is formed, without the necessity of severing any portions of the goods from which the tuck is formed.

Heretofore in the making or forming of darts or gores in coats or the like, it has been the usual or customary operation to sever the goods, take the severed ends and form a tuck or gore. then connect this tuck together by transverse stitching, and then press the gore down against the inner face of the material, which operation leaves a ridge on the exterior of the article of wearing apparel. To overcome this unsightly appearance in making darts or gores, I have provided an improved method of making a dart or gore without necessitating the cutting or severing of the goods in which the dart or gore is to be placed. My method consists in forming a tuck, approximately in the waist line of the article of wearing apparel. taking an extra piece of material and stitching it centrally of its opposite side edges to this tuck adjacent its bight portion, and pressing the material and tuck open at their point of juncture in opposite directions, which gives a smooth, unobstructed finish to the outer wearing surface of the garmentin which the dart or gore is formed.

A still further object of this invention is the method of making a dart or gore. which materially reduces the cost of manufacturing, due to the fact that various operations are eliminated, and at the same time produces a more efficient, finished article.

Vith these and other objects in view, the invention consists in certain novel features, combination and arrangement of parts as will be hereinafter more fully described, illustrated in the accompanying drawing and claimed.

In the drawing,

Figure 1 is a plan view of a portion of an article of wearing apparel, showing the location of the dart or gore;

Serial No. 79,972.

. Figure 2 is a perspective sectional view, illustrating the first step in my new method of forming a dart or gore;

Figure 3 is a fragmentary perspective view, illustrating the second step or placing of the extra piece of material to the formed dart or gore;

Figure t illustrates the third step in the new method after the material has been completely stitched together; and,

Figure 5 illustrates the complete method of forming the dart or gore in its finished state.

My improved method consists in taking the material 6 and providing it with a tuck 11, and this tuck is made in the manner illustrated in Figure 2. After the goods has been folded as illustrated, a reenforcing piece of material 12, is laid against one side face of the tuck 11 and stitched thereto as at 13, the stitches 13 connecting the open ends of the tuck, as illustrated in Figure 3. The material 12 then separated from the upper portion of the tuck and pressed downwardly in opposite directions against the inner side of the material 6, as illustrated in Figure 5, which produces a smooth, outside seam on the body of the material 6. as clearly illustrated in Figure 5. i

It is to be noted that the reenforcing material 12 also serves as a reenforcement to the dart or gore, and eliminates the necessity of severing the tuck at its web portion.

This method also eliminates various intricate operations, as it is only necessary to tuck the goods as at 11, face it with a piece of material 12, stitch it as at 13, open it and press it, as illustrated in Figure 5, and the dart or gore is formed and completed.

It is also to be understood that in the use of my improved dart or gore, that the use of the material 12, when fastened to the tuck ll, prevents the dart or gore from puck ering at its ends as is the common occurrencein the old style of dart or-gore. The use of this particular strip also permits a fastening of the dart or gore to the canvas front without the necessity of stitching the frontto the dart or gore proper. This operation necessarily provides a quicker means of fastening the canvas front to the article of wearing apparel.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new is:

The herein described method of making darts or gorcs in cloth articles of wearing apparel, consisting of first making a tuck Without severing the goods, placing a blank piece of material against one side face of the cloth forming the tuck, stitching the material centrally of its longitudinal edges to the tuck portion of the goods at the bight portion thereof, separating the material from the tuck, and pressing the tuck portion and material downwardly against-the face of the goods in opposite directions so as to make 10 that portion on each side of the bight por tion identical in thickness and size.

In testimony whereof he hereunto afiixes his signature.

PETER REICHARDT. 

